Tonsai beach

‘Sawasdee Ka’ from Tonsai, a semi-isolated jungle and coastal community surrounded by crystal-blue seas, and towering cliffs of perfectly-formed, mostly overhanging limestone. It is the mecca of winter climbing destinations; world-class routes, hut living, delicious Thai food, and absolute peace.

Tonsai is mainly full of climbers, with some backpackers and a few families. Not being an official ‘village’, it has always felt quite makeshift, but on this trip it has really established itself with swankier accommodation and paved roads.

Check dis. Official rad pad

It was a little intimidating arriving in Tonsai as the climbing grades are pretty tough, and when I last came in 2014 with our lad Padlogdog, we were going pretty well. Moreover, Jem and I have been seriously dedicating our time to sampling all of the national dishes and beers on our journey, and with new enhanced waistlines, the prospect of notable success seems improbable.

The neighbouring town, Railay, accessed via short walk through the jungle, is connected to real life and is much more touristy and very busy. Luckily for us, there is easier climbing there!

View of Tonsai beach from Fire Wall

Yesterday, we went for a Thai massage, where basically you get the crap pummelled out of you for an hour, and about 45 mins in, you are begging them for mercy. Jem cracked so much it was like listening to someone stand on a chicken carcass. Today, we feel like goddamn heroes and my tendonitis has vanished. Climbing is going well, and we are enjoying it so much.

We started the first day on the uber-classic Groove Tube, a 3-star 6a, which has a very unique feature before the first bolt
There he is! There was a lot of grunting
We’ve done some epic routes, most of which involve executing some acrobatics around a big stalagtite. It is funny to hear Jem exclaim: “THAT WAS THE BEST ROUTE I’VE EVER DONE” after every route he does.
The climbing is a dream
The 100pc humidity is pretty rough on the hands!

In monkey news, here are our local genre of ape, who are always hiding around a corner and jumping up and down on our roof.

This guy was hanging out by our hut last night. It’s a Dusky (or Spectacled) Langur and they seem pretty friendly
These Long-Tailed Macaques won the cute contest

There are also weird slugs on the beach. A Black Sea Cucumber, apparently.

Foot for scale.
People eat these in Asia as a delicacy

The Thais are really lovely people. Everyone here is smiling and it is really infectious. We haven’t been approached once by anyone wanting business, and the climbing community is super friendly. A dream destination indeed.

Final note. So this happened. Jem rolled a dice on a flat surface, and it landed on its corner. He is the messiah. Mad.
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