A very happy Christmas from Siargao, one of the most easterly of the 7,641 islands which make up the Philippines archipelago. Siargao (pronounced Shar-gow) is internationally famous for its surfing, turquoise waters and sandy beaches, and hosts a renowned break called Cloud 9 which is reserved for the most skilled surfers. The island’s main tourist…

Bags packed and ready for the off! It’s been a wonderful last few days here in Tonsai, punctuated by climbing and backgammon. Our stellar luck in avoiding travel-related sickness caught up with me this week; there’s nothing like spending your last day in paradise shuttling between the toilet and the bed during a nasty bout…

If there’s something I particularly like about Tonsai, in addition to everything else, it’s the fact that there is a cute monkey around every corner. They sit watching from the rafters over breakfast and in the afternoon gather in the bush next to our house to eat the leaves. These are the chillest monkeys you’ve…

I made a wager with Jem about two months ago that by December he would be sporting a ‘wrap-around’ of some description, to great protests of, “as if I’d ever wear a wrap-around, I’m not a total hippy” etc. Lo and behold, this evening, Jem presents. I think it’s just for domestic use  👀 We…

‘Sawasdee Ka’ from Tonsai, a semi-isolated jungle and coastal community surrounded by crystal-blue seas, and towering cliffs of perfectly-formed, mostly overhanging limestone. It is the mecca of winter climbing destinations; world-class routes, hut living, delicious Thai food, and absolute peace. Tonsai is mainly full of climbers, with some backpackers and a few families. Not being an…

So after 12 hours of waiting at Goa airport, our rescheduled flight was finally cancelled. Cue massive scramble to book new flights… the last ones left, which we had to sell some organs to buy, took us to Thailand via United Arab Emirates with a 16-hour layover. We are now in Dubai, surrounded by sand,…

During the major disruption at UK airports in July, when a radar issue grounded 150 flights and caused chaos country-wide, I remember feeling relieved and lucky that I’d never been embroiled in such a drama. Fast forward four months. India’s main carrier, IndiGo, has been in complete meltdown for the last few days following new…

It is easy to get frustrated with the UK’s cronyism and sleaze. Years of Brexit and covid-related scandals under the Tories, followed by incompetence, backtracking, and infighting under Labour. Meanwhile, the menacing threat of right-wing populist leaders sweeping into power. However. This is a drop in the ocean compared with what the Indians are enduring.…

We have spent the last few days immersing ourselves in Goa: the home of the dreadlock, poo-catcher pants, top knot, and dreamcatcher tattoo. It’s been a treat to receive an actual fork with a rice dish; infinately preferable to chasing a million grains around the plate using only one’s right hand, and then throwing it…

Greetings, family and friends, from Badami, India’s premiere sport climbing destination, about 2 hours north-west of Hampi. We are spending four days in this bustling town before heading to Goa. Badami’s 5,000 inhabitants are very friendly, low maintenance, and curious (i.e. they stare, a lot). We are the only whites in the village, and when…