I made a wager with Jem about two months ago that by December he would be sporting a ‘wrap-around’ of some description, to great protests of, “as if I’d ever wear a wrap-around, I’m not a total hippy” etc. Lo and behold, this evening, Jem presents. I think it’s just for domestic use  👀 We…

‘Sawasdee Ka’ from Tonsai, a semi-isolated jungle and coastal community surrounded by crystal-blue seas, and towering cliffs of perfectly-formed, mostly overhanging limestone. It is the mecca of winter climbing destinations; world-class routes, hut living, delicious Thai food, and absolute peace. Tonsai is mainly full of climbers, with some backpackers and a few families. Not being an…

So after 12 hours of waiting at Goa airport, our rescheduled flight was finally cancelled. Cue massive scramble to book new flights… the last ones left, which we had to sell some organs to buy, took us to Thailand via United Arab Emirates with a 16-hour layover. We are now in Dubai, surrounded by sand,…

During the major disruption at UK airports in July, when a radar issue grounded 150 flights and caused chaos country-wide, I remember feeling relieved and lucky that I’d never been embroiled in such a drama. Fast forward four months. India’s main carrier, IndiGo, has been in complete meltdown for the last few days following new…

It is easy to get frustrated with the UK’s cronyism and sleaze. Years of Brexit and covid-related scandals under the Tories, followed by incompetence, backtracking, and infighting under Labour. Meanwhile, the menacing threat of right-wing populist leaders sweeping into power. However. This is a drop in the ocean compared with what the Indians are enduring.…

We have spent the last few days immersing ourselves in Goa: the home of the dreadlock, poo-catcher pants, top knot, and dreamcatcher tattoo. It’s been a treat to receive an actual fork with a rice dish; infinately preferable to chasing a million grains around the plate using only one’s right hand, and then throwing it…

Greetings, family and friends, from Badami, India’s premiere sport climbing destination, about 2 hours north-west of Hampi. We are spending four days in this bustling town before heading to Goa. Badami’s 5,000 inhabitants are very friendly, low maintenance, and curious (i.e. they stare, a lot). We are the only whites in the village, and when…

The journey to Hampi was a trek of epic proportions involving two flights to Hubli airport via Hydrabad. There we waited five hours for a train, before the final one-hour tuk tuk ride to our accommodation. The train station was mayhem. Unlike China, where the platforms are helpfully marked to show where you should wait…

This morning, we hauled up the white flag and saluted it from the comfort of a hotel room next to Jodhpur airport. One week of touring the “less intense” northern Indian cities – an adventure, we thought, we would easily take in our stride – had truly kicked our asses. Admittedly, we made some tactical…

Between Udaipur and Jodhpur sit the Araveli Hills; the oldest mountain range in India that spans for 420 miles north to south. The hills host a huge and diverse wildlife, including leopards, striped hyenas, wolves, jackals, sloth bears, and crocodiles.  The area is home to a number of historical buildings that pre-date the state of Rajisthan,…