This morning we set a 4.30am alarm to catch the iconic raising of the flag in Tianeman Square, a tradition dating back to 1949 to mark the founding of the People’s Republic of China. Thousands flock to watch this one-minute event each morning. As we watched the flag being hoisted, excited spectators sung along to the national anthem and jostled to get to the front.
To our amusement it turned out Jem’s milk bottles were the star attraction. We are, so far, some of the only white faces we have seen in the city, and at times, one can feel like a specimen in a petri dish.






Our hotel is located on the southern side of the centre. Despite regular passport checks and bag x-rays at checkpoints entering most tourist attractions and every subway, we were struck by the fun and relaxed nature of the city. However, accessing the infamous Tianeman Square revealed a more sinister side. To enter the Fort Knox-esque square you must navigate layers of police, CCTV, soldiers and yet more CCTV towers which ring the square, with entry requiring a strict booking and vetting process, an extremely intimate search where my phone was dismantled and our backgammon board almost confiscated, and then all bags and belongings x-rayed.


The square has a dark and muted history, more of which can be found out about online. We understand that the Chinese youth have no idea what unfolded there in 1989; without a VPN it is impossible to access any information online, apart from the strictly controlled narrative permitted by the state.























